February’s Virtual Commons Feast

At this time of the year, certainly in the UK we are often offered some inkling that spring is approaching. Green shoots emerge, and early spring flowers are appearing, snowdrops, crocus, daffodils, violets, lesser celandine.

A couple of weeks ago, I was part of a panel Seeding the Commons at the Gaia Foundation online Seed Gathering. The conference was full of stories of the wonders of seeds and got me thinking about the magic that happens where seeds reside. Germination. Concealed. Quietly, powerfully, waiting to spring forth ”end[ing] offshoots both downward and upward,” as philosopher Michael Marder writes in Plant-Thinking: A Philosophy of Vegetal Life, “burrowing deeper into the earth emerging from obscurity towards the light” (Marder, 2013:63). Glimmers of birth and rebirth, into the in-between space of the darkness-soil, and lightness of -in both senses of the meaning- air. “A bi-directionality” that mirrors this time of year, where we are approaching spring but also on some days it feels as if we are going back into winter (p.63).

Mo Wilde who as a child living in Kenya where the seasons are either rainy or dry recalls in The Wilderness Cure,“thunder would start to rumble, far away on the horizon, and then lightning flashes. Before the first drop of rain hit the earth, hundreds of tiny seedlings would sprout out of nowhere” (Wilde, 2022:83). When she was young, she couldn’t comprehend how plants understood that the rains were coming and now points us to researchers at Imperial college who have now recognised that the prompt for their metabolism is triggered by germinating seeds being able to sense the electricity in the air that foretells the approaching rain.

Out in the landscapes, it is not however the seed that we are now witnessing that heralds the life of the plant, but the shoots, the leaves, that Marder states “usurps the originary status of the seed” (Marder, 2013:82). He draws on Goethe and Thomas Aquinas as he asserts that rather than in “the deep recesses of the seed and earth […] the mystery of this life […] resides right on the surface, that which is given to sight and turned toward light, the trope of being-exposed, the leaf,” (p.82). And it is the minute nuances of shape, size, tone, texture. colour, transparency that I am noticing and identifying now as these new plants shoot forth.

With the arrival of spring my mind sometimes goes back to the beginning of things and John Wright in his book Hedgerow reminds us that before the development of agriculture, foraging was our only means of feeding ourselves, and talks of how these “instincts do not disappear just because we do not need them, as we once did” (Wright, 2010:10) and as many of us can’t rely on learning from our mothers and grandmothers, “things now have to be learned anew” (p.11). Whilst farming enabled a more reliable and as Wright argues, a less time-consuming food source, “it [has] deprived us of one of life’s great pleasures” (p.10).

So perhaps we can stop here so we might share the joys found in foraging at this inbetweeness of seasons emphasised as Goethe said by the “fruitfulness hidden in a leaf” (Marder, 2013: 82). 

In this month’s Commons Feast, we shared ideas and thoughts over glasses of cherry blossom vodka and sloe gin. I also nibbled on a Shrove Tuesday inspired pancake made with a combination of flours made from acorn, dock seed and ribwort plantain sweetened with violet syrup alongside some savoury pakoras with a base of the same batter to coat wild greens shown in the second photo indicated by the following numbers: 1). ground ivy/ale hoof, 2). garlic mustard, 3). goosegrass/sticky willy, 4). dandelion, 5). common sorrel, 6). sow’s thistle, 7). red deadnettle and 8). wild garlic/ramson: this season’s fresh leaves enveloped in silky batter made with last season’s seeds.

One participant shared how to make their cherry blossom vodka liqueur, which whilst floral also had a surprising hint of almond, by allowing the spirit, petals and sugar to macerate for many months. She also shared other ways to use the flowers and buds, for example, pickling buds in white or cider vinegar, popular in Japan.

One participant, who was a complete foraging beginner, challenged us by asking what five plants would be recommended for a beginner. For me, someone who, at the best of times, is unable to give a straight answer to anything, evaded the question by saying it depends on the season and landscape. However, dandelion came up immediately as top of the list for another participant – because of its ubiquity, its familiarity and ease in identification, and for being able to use all of the plant for food as well as medicine, i.e. the root (roasted as a veg, and as a coffee substitute), leaf (as a salad or pot herb) and flower (to make a kind of honey, or deep fried in batter), for example.

One participant talked of the fungus they have recently enjoyed foraging, puff balls, turkey tail and bracket fungus, known as artist palettes, as they can be inscribed or etched into, or painted on, and can also be cooked as a medicinal tea. They had also hoped to forage on the beach, having recently moved near the seashore, despite a lack of seaweed or sea greens, they had managed to gather some sea buckthorn berries. We also talked about how to preserve wild garlic in salt so we can enjoy its flavours throughout the year.

References:

Michael Marder (2013) Plant-Thinking: A Philosophy of Vegetal Life New York: Columba University Press.

Mo Wilde (2022) The Wilderness Cure London: Simon & Schuster.

John Wright (2010) Hedgerow London: Bloomsbury.

John Wright (2020) The Forager’s Calendar: A Seasonal Guide to Nature’s Wild Harvests London: Profile Books.

Some Foraging Resources – February 2023

  • Alexis Nikole @blackforager https://www.instagram.com/blackforager/
  • Alys Fowler (2011) The Thrifty Forager: Living off your Local Landscape London: Kyle Books.
  • British Local Food (2023) https://britishlocalfood.com/resources/
  • Daniel Butler (2016) ‘Has Foraging gone Too Far?’ The Land 20. https://thelandmagazine.org.uk/sites/default/files/Has%20Foraging%20Gone%20Too%20Far.pdf
  • Duncan Mackay (2010) Eat Wild Reading: Two Rivers Press.
  • Fern Freud @foraged.by.fern https://www.instagram.com/foraged.by.fern/
  • Hollybush Gardens (2022) JUMANA MANNA: FORAGERS, Press release, https://hollybushgardens.co.uk/files/press-release-jumana-manna-foragers-hollybush-gardens-2022.pdf
  • Jean Palaiseul (1972) Grandmother’s Secrets: Her Green Guide to Health from Plants London: Penguin
  • John Wright (2010) Hedgerow London: Bloomsbury.
  • John Wright (2017) A Natural History of the Hedgerow London: Profile Books.
  • John Wright (2020) The Forager’s Calendar: A Seasonal Guide to Nature’s Wild Harvests London: Profile Books.
  • Karen Stephenson (2020) Foraging Cookbook Emeryville, CA.: Rockridge Press.
  • Katerina Blair (2014) The Wild Wisdom of Weeds: 13 Essential Plants for Human Survival White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Publishing 
  • Łukasz Łuczaj, Monica Wilde, and Leanne Townsend (2021) ‘The Ethnobiology of Contemporary British Foragers: Foods They Teach, Their Sources of Inspiration and Impact’ Sustainability 13, 3478. https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/13/6/3478
  • Melany Vorass Herrera (2013) The Front Yard Forager: Identifying, Collecting, and Cooking the most 30 Common Urban Weeds Seattle: Skipstone Books.
  • Mo Wilde (2022) The Wilderness Cure London: Simon & Schuster.
  • Natalia Brizuela and Julia Bryan-Wilson (2022) ‘Seeds of Change’, Artforum, Vol. 62, No. 2, October 2022, pp. 146-153.
  • Richard Hosking (ed) (2006) Wild Food: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, 2004, Prospect books – free digital download: https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/Wild_Food/juAabiJpnn0C?hl=en
  • Richard Mabey (2007) Food for Free London: HarperCollins.
  • Robin Harford (2015) The Eatweeds Cookbook Exeter: Eatweeds
  • Robin Harford (2019) Edible and Medicinal Wild Plants of Britain and Ireland Exeter: Eatweeds.
  • Robin Harford (2022) Forage in Spring: The Food and Medicine of Britain’s Wild Plants Exeter: Eatweeds.
  • Robin Harford www.eatweeks.co.uk
  • Robin Wall Kimmerer (2013) Braiding Sweetgrass Indigenous Wisdom, Scientific Knowledge and the Teachings of Plants London: Penguin.
  • Roger Phillips (1983) Wild Food London: Pan.
  • The Commons: Re-Enchanting the World @reenchanting_the_commons https://www.instagram.com/reenchanting_the_commons/
  • Vicky Chown & Kim Walker (2017) The Handmade Apothecary: Healing Herbal Remedies London: Kyle Books.

Commons Feast Virtual Monthly Meet Up, 17 January 2023

A huge thank you to those who made it to January’s ‘Commons Feast virtual monthly meet up’ last Tuesday. Because I was staying with my parents in my childhood village, Lambourn, West Berkshire, I began the session with a short text about the landscapes that constitute and form us through the knowledges, nutrients, minerals and teachings passed from plants to human and human to human across generations. Drawing on Robin Wall Kimmerer’s ‘Braiding Sweetgrass: Indigenous Wisdom, Scientific Knowledge and the Teachings of Plants’ where she writes of becoming co-constituted from the minerals drawn from the earth in the particular place she calls home particularly when her grown up children return to stay. She recites the following prayer to wild leeks when gathering them:

“I ask these leeks to renew the bonds between this ground and my children so that they will always carry the substance of home in the mineral of their bones” (2013: 176).

I had made crackers from dock seeds gathered from these hedgerows of my childhood and those of my father’s. I topped the crackers with some cheese and a sprinkling of a few leaves of common sorrel gathered from my local riverside park in Hersham Surrey. To drink, I had a snifter of sloe gin picked from the New Forest, the childhood stomping ground of my partner. 

One feaster brought walnuts picked from a tree in her local park. She spoke about the green and fragrant pods of the nuts which had to be vigorously washed off and was interested in testing to see if it might work as a dye. She also shared her dismay at her friends’ reluctance and distrust in eating the nuts which highlighted for her how far removed we have come from the land and knowledge of where our food actually comes from.

Another feaster had had her eye on a dandelion plant which she was going to use in various ways. However, it was killed by the rather hard frost that came overnight, so instead shared some stories of the use of rushes as a kind of candle, the preparation of which would have been the job of women, children and the less able, part of her uncovering disabled histories.

Amongst the many other threads, ramblings and meanders, we talked of the multiple ways to use nettles, and I learnt how to make nettle crisps in the oven the stings of which are neutralised by the heat. We ended with the promise of a feaster who will try and make a version of clootie dumpling for February’s session, with a nod to Robert Burns, with wild herbs, such as dandelion leaves.

Later in the week, whilst staying in Lambourn, I have been collecting catkins, the male flowers of the hazel, being fascinated to see how when left on a plate for a few hours they release their intense yellow pollen. I have been adding them when dried, ground up into meatballs and into a stuffed cabbage pie or chou farci filling. I have also steeped them in hot water to make an intense yellow infusion and will grind them to add to bread dough, pastry, cakes and galettes. 

According to https://meadow-lab.com/foraging/hazel-catkins/ hazel catkins are often seen as a survival food and are a ‘good source of protein, vitamins, minerals and have anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and [a] detoxifying action’.

Now I have a sense in the hedgerows of where there is an abundance of these hazel trees so I can try and collect some of their nuts in September. Although as many sources have warned, it might be a fight to get there before the squirrels do! 

Second iteration of the Commons Feast virtual monthly meet up on Tuesday 15 November 2022 Commons Feast Virtual Monthly Meet Up

Thanks so much for everyone who came and shared their energy, time, knowledge and experiences so generously at the second iteration of the Commons Feast, on 15 November. Despite it being late autumn, we heard stories of people identifying, picking and eating flowers, leaves, berries, roots and fungi whilst partaking of various foods and drinks such as elderflower cordial, and elderflower and blackberry compote, dried nettle leaf tea, tilleul or Linden tisane, pine needle tea, and acorn bread with gorse flowers topped with common sorrel pesto and gorse flower infusion. 


In the first iteration, I framed the session around our motivations for why we forage and why we wanted to come together in an event such as the Commons Feast. For this session, I offered the following as a provocation which framed our discussions: 


In ‘Seeds of Change’ an essay in October’s issue of Artforum, writers Natalia Brizuela and Julia Bryan-Wilson discuss the work of Palestinian Berlin-based artist, Jumana Manna, starting with her 2022 film, Foragers which was on show at Hollybush Gardens gallery in London. The film examines how practices of foraging ‘intersect with colonial power structures’ (Hollybush Gardens, 2022). It explores the sensory interactions with edible plants, especially za’atar and akkoub, as well as the criminalisation of foragers. It follows those who collect herbs vital to Palestinian food heritage, those who work for the Israel Nature and Parks Authority, as well as inside the Israeli legal system, to witness wild food gatherers being chased and caught, interrogated and fined, criminalised for practices which are ‘embodied entanglements with the environment’ and acts of stewardship ‘across generations’ (Brizuela and Bryan-Wilson, 2022: 147). 


As an introduction, Brizuela and Bryan-Wilson trace the etymology of the word ‘forager’ which they write as having almost oppositionally different meanings. ‘It appears in fifteenth century English to describe someone who roves in search of sustenance’ yet ‘a century earlier the Old French foragier referred to a plunderer’ (p. 147).

Photos from Jumana Manna Foragers 2022 film projection, Hollybush Gardens.

Although in the UK and Europe, we are not dealing with the level of recent colonialism of that depicted in Manna’s film, our natural resources, however, can often appear scarce or endangered, being increasingly polluted, infringed and built upon, having been enclosed, colonised and privatised through acts of enclosure during the 17th and 18th centuries as well as in more recent and contemporary times.

Wherever we forage, we must traverse sensitively, making sure whilst in our search for sustenance we do not plunder so as to enable our future selves, our descendants and our non-human relatives can continue to engage in what Brizuela and Bryan-Wilson call ‘embodied entanglement’ (p.147) with our landscapes in dialogue with ecology and ancestry through these wild foodways which teach us so many things. They write, ‘foraging is repair, continuity, survival, existence’ (p. 148).

Photos from Jumana Manna Foragers 2022 film projection, Hollbybush Gardens


The idea of foraging as repair, care and survival seemed to resonate deeply with people at this Commons Feast meet up. We heard of stories of foraging – and the walks that are inevitably part of this gathering – as practices of healing, repairing, slowing down and as therapy against a variety of physical and mental conditions. Once again, slowing down and paying attention to one’s immediate environment came up, and noticing and foraging gave purpose and encouragement to go, – and stay outside, when health conditions made it more challenging. We heard about foraging in rural and coastal areas, and in urban parks with a knowledge exchanging with visitors to the UK to find similar wild plants in common such as fat hen and Aztec broccoli. One participant talked of taste testing raw haws (as suggested by Robin Harford) which, it turns out, are not all created equal in flavour. The challenge of identification if you don’t have a working sense of smell was also discussed, with suggestions to gather with friends to share knowledge as well as sensory input! 

As for gathering in December, John Wright has these suggestions in :


References:

Hollybush Gardens (2022) JUMANA MANNA: FORAGERS, Press release, https://hollybushgardens.co.uk/files/press-release-jumana-manna-foragers-hollybush-gardens-2022.pdf (Accessed 15/11/2022). 

Natalia Brizuela and Julia Bryan-Wilson (2022) ‘Seeds of Change’, Artforum, Artforum, Vol. 62, No. 2, October 2022, pp. 146-153.

John Wright (2019) The Forager’s Calendar: A Seasonal Guide to Nature’s Wild Harvests London: Profile Books.

First iteration of the Commons Feast virtual monthly meet up on Tuesday 18 October 2022

Thanks to all who joined me for the first iteration of the Commons Feast virtual monthly meet up on Tuesday 18 October. It was great to meet new people and connect with new and old friends framed by our motivations for foraging and why we wanted to join the monthly meet up.  

We shared our wonder and fear of wild plants. How foraging and consuming wild plants opens us up to the unknown. How it is a way of storytelling and narrating our relationship to the non-human. We talk about how our health is supported by wild foods. How important it is to be connected to creatives and like-minded people and how Covid has gotten in the way of that. We revelled in how foraging gets us to embrace slowness, quietness and fosters a heightened sense of awareness. And we examined the time and commitment required to process gathered foods, confessing to not always getting it right! 

We shared our foods and ingredients and their uses: rosehips and blackberry jam tarts; wild infusions to support menopausal symptoms, better sleep and dreaming such as mugwort, plantain, cleavers, and red clover; nettle seeds on yogurt for a natural morning stimulant; first time sloe gin making; pickling seaweeds such as dulse and sugar kelp; sweet chestnuts made into a pastry case with a wild greens filling.  

We also shared ideas of what to forage for now and in the coming weeks. Two participants have recently moved to coastal regions, albeit at different ends of the country, and so are excited to look for sea buckthorn, seaweeds, such as kelps, dulse, and oarweed, and sea vegetables such as sea beet, sea purslane and sea kale. And the landlocked among us will be looking for rosehips, yarrow, sweet chestnuts, acorns, and other edible leaves, berries and nuts. There was also mention of escaped watercress in a river. But nobody seemed very confident with fungus. 

Below are some November suggestions from John Wright’s The Forager’s Calendar:

I will be hosting these events for at least a year so we can engage in a collective act of witnessing the seasons together through our wild foods and landscapes. The next one is on Tuesday 15 November, 7-8pm.

Go to Eventbrite to book: https://tinyurl.com/3fasmhe7. All welcome and of course, free!

Commons Feast Virtual Monthly Meet Up

Information & Resources for first session, Tues 18 Oct 2022

Extending The Commons Feast which formed part of The Commons: Re-Enchanting the World project, co-curated with Catherine Morland, and inspired by Mo Wilde’s The Wilderness Cure (2022), Roger Phillips’ Wild Food (1983) and Robin Harford’s The Eatweeds Cookbook (2015) in which he proposes to ‘Eat Something Wild Everyday’, I am convening a Commons Feast Monthly Virtual Meet Up on the third Tuesday of the month, 7-8pm BST, starting on Tuesday 18 October 2022. 

We won’t go as far as Mo Wilde who, on black Friday of 2020, started eating only free, wild, foods for a year, but instead we will come together once a month on Zoom and share knowledge and foraging adventures over what we have found and prepared from wild, free, foraged and spontaneous ingredients.

Increasingly we are facing scarcity of food on the supermarket shelves and interruptions in supply chains. In the UK in just the last two years, consumers have experienced empty shelves caused by panic buying at the start of the pandemic, a shortage of seasonal pickers as well as other consequences of Brexit, the Affinity V tanker stuck in the Suez Canal in March 2021, fuel shortages in autumn 2021, labour absences caused by Covid sickness, and now a hike in food prices brought on by the energy crisis. So what better time to make foraging and wild food gathering and eating a way to create some kind of food security. Connecting us to the natural world, creating awareness of the changes and nuances in our landscapes and ecosystems, foraged foods also open us up to a host of nutrients, new flavours and textures some of which bare no relation to cultivated foods.

I am framing this Virtual Meet Up as a participatory performance, where I propose we simply follow a Fluxus inspired score, like Alison Knowles’ ‘Make a Salad’.

Alison Knowles, Make a Salad. 1962, Performed at the Institute of Contemporary Arts, London, October 1962. Reproduced from Julia Robinson, “The Sculpture of Indeterminacy: Alison Knowles’s Beans and Variations,” Art Journal 63, no. 4 (2004): 98, from https://www.feastingonart.com/2017/08/alison-knowles-salad.html

The score: Forage for a wild/free/commons/foraged/spontaneous ingredient/s and prepare something from it to eat and/or drink.


All are welcome whether you are a seasoned veteran of foraging, or a complete beginner and have never eaten so much as a blackberry from a hedgerow! 

To kick start your foraging for October you could follow people on Instagram, or have a look at these books and websites:

https://britishlocalfood.com/resources/ If you subscribe to his newsletter you can receive a pdf ebook, EASY FORAGING: YOUR FIRST 10 PLANTS.

Robin Harford’s Eatweeds

And do check out the Woodland Trust’s Responsible Foraging Guidelines: https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/visiting-woods/things-to-do/foraging/foraging-guidelines/

I am currently obsessed with herbs for infusions. I daily drink a varying array of wild herbal combinations. This month I have collected mullein, hawthorn leaves, yarrow and self-heal leaves and flowers, plantain and mugwort.

Tisane of mullein leaf, yarrow flower, hawthorn and red clover flowers

In the last couple of weeks, I have been making rosehips syrup using the 1945 Ministry of Food’s recipe, and cordials and pies from local apples, as well as savoury hawthorn and sweeter sloe jellies.

Processing rosehips for syrup

I have also collected nettle seeds for the first time which I am adding to infusions in the afternoon when I need a pick me up (they apparently a stimulant) and sprinkling a few into my sourdough flatbread dough just before I roll it out.

Sourdough flatbread with nettle seeds

Inspired by Octavia Butler’s character, Lauren Olamina, in Parable of the Sower’s love of acorn bread, I am aiming to collect and process acorns to make flour, as there seems such an abundance at the moment.

You could also forage for sloes, haws, hips, beechnuts, sweet chestnuts… and if you have fungal knowledge there are a whole host of mushrooms that are around but I’m yet to have the confidence to forage for mycology. I’m a bit too scared!


Subsequent dates for the meet up until January, will be 15 November, 20 December 2022, and 17 January 2023.

To get Zoom link and book, go to Eventbrite: https://tinyurl.com/3fasmhe7


Sourdough Starter and Bread Information and Resources for ‘The Virtual Commons Feast’, part of Launching the Commons: A Virtual Gathering with The MERL, 30 July 2021

As a recipient of a sourdough culture from Josefin Vargö’s Levande Arkivet (The Living Archive) to kick start your own yeast community, you need to enliven it before you can bake with it.

www.levandearkivet.josefinevargo.com

When making your bread:

Each starter is accompanied by the unique story from its baker. During the slow fermentation of the sourdough process, we encourage you to mix its narrative with your dough, and fold your own memories and reflections on value, time, labour and the process within it.

Click below to download some resources that we have gathered about how to keep your starter alive and suggestions of how to go about baking with it. When discarding a fraction of your starter when you are feeding it, we suggest not throwing it away. There are many things you can make with this ‘discard’. Just ‘Google’, recipes with sourdough starter discard recipes. I love adding it to flatbread dough and to pancake batter, for instance.


Image Credit: Kristen Fraser

Finally, we invite you to participate in The Virtual Commons Feast, designed by Josefin and Amanda Couch part of the ‘Launching The Commons: A Virtual Gathering’ with The MERL on Friday 30 July from 6 – 7.45pm. Don’t forget to book via the https://merl.reading.ac.uk/event/commons-feast/

Alongside talks, videos and performances by artists, Catherine Morland, Amanda Couch, Sigrid Holmwood, and Kelechi Anucha and Carl Gent, and a live walk through in the galleries by The MERL curator, Ollie Douglas, the event will also include The Virtual Commons Feast, where we hope you will join us with food and drink, including your sourdough bread that you have prepared in advance to eat and share. 

 What is a Commons Feast?

To accompany your bread, you are encouraged to forage for and prepare dishes from wild foods, and/or from foods of producers local to you. We have been posting suggestions on the project’s Instagram account, for when and how to forage, prepare and preserve seasonal wild foods. It is hoped, that these prompts will guide you to make and remake the commons by rediscovering the knowledge of the land and to circumnavigate the commercialization of the food system to make accessible the abundance and nutrition of wild foods to all, independent of wealth. Connecting with local food producers also undermines the increasingly dominant mass industrial food model, creating local, ethical and sustainable food systems.

See Instagram: @reenchanting_the_commons and @amandacouch_art

Divinatory Models: Conversations with pastry, the past and the inside

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This year I have been making pastry interpretations of ancient divination models using shortbread biscuit dough, and rough, puff and hot water crust pastry, for the lids of pies with various fillings.

Whilst visiting the Vorderasiatische Museum in Berlin in February, I came across a clay tablet from Babylon from the 12th-11th century BC, with multiple representations of extispicy models. In order to understand these images, I have  been incising the forms onto the lids of the small pies. The original tablet contains 14 diagrams, some whole, some fragmentary,  which represent the various configurations of the entrails of sacrificial sheep, and what they might mean to diviners.[1]

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Examples of these models were also incised into the lids of the Andouilette pies, which were served as part of the ‘Intestines’ course of my recent Reflection on Digestion performance dinner at LIBRARY London. In the chapter, I was connecting the intestines to the labyrinth, the labyrinth to the library, informed by literary examples such as the Medieval monastic labyrinthine library of Eco’s The Name of the Rose, and the absurd universal library of Borges’ Library of Babel. I liked the idea that my participants were breaking open the pies, disembowelling the intestines of the Andouilette sausage within, and then ingesting both the actual innards and the ancient representation of them. As Murakami’s Oshima instructs Kafka, in his novel, Kafka on the Shore, my participants too might be able to perceive their insides within, and thereby conceptually and visually (re)-connecting the idea of the digestive system being at the same time inside the body, and part of the external environment, outside the body border.

‘It was the ancient Mesopotamians. They pulled out animal intestines… and used the shape to predict the future…So the prototype for labyrinths is, in a word, guts. Which means that the principle for the labyrinth is inside you. And that correlates to the labyrinth outside…. Things that are outside you are a projection of what’s inside you, and what’s inside you is a projection of what’s outside…’[2]

12-Intestine-pie-crop

A larger pie lid’s inscription refers to the 11th century BC Mesopotamian clay tablet representing the bowels of a sheep, which I found in the Louvre in January. It is a similar model to the Berlin forms, but which appears to be a single image on the tablet.

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Another larger pie lid refers to the divination model from the Old Babylonian period, 18th-16th century BC, housed in the British Museum, which portrays the demon Huwawa’s face as coiled intestines. Huwawa or Humbaba was the guardian of the cedar forest in the Epic of Gilgamesh. The inscription on the reverse of the object reveals an omen that if entrails were encountered that look like this model, it would mean ‘revolution’. This example is not a representation of actual entrails, but rather more metaphorical.

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A form of visual research, these biscuits were made in the Louvre galleries whilst observing the liver models on display from the palace of Mari (19th-18th century BC), and the 11th century BC divinatory tablet of sheep guts.

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There is a certain kind of excitement by taking unconventional materials into museums to sculpt rather than draw from the collections. The clay tablets and models from ancient Mesopotamia lend themselves to being learnt from, translated and transformed through another form of clay, or Greek –gloios- meaning ‘sticky matter’. In much the same way the diviners may have formed the original models translating the actual blemishes and marks on the sheep livers into their clay, I, too, am learning through the forming of paste, what these divining models may have felt like in the hand, and how they may have been formed, incised, and pierced.

There are a few examples in extispicy reports of the ‘baking’ of the results of a divination, which is thought could refer to the preserving of the models. For example, in a letter to the king of Mari the diviner Erib-Sin wrote, ‘I baked […] those extispicies and sealed them in a box and sent (it) to my lord’.[3]

The idea one might get caught ‘playing’ with foodstuffs in a museum is also exciting. There is a subversion, a resistance in this kind of irreverent intervention into such institutions. So often in museums, history is held in such high regard through the preservation of the objects, and their inevitable separation from us, and as a result it can sometimes seem as if history is perceived much more of a thing that is to be conserved and protected, rather than a process or a conversation, that is being created by our interaction and dialogue with it.[4]

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At the beginning of this academic year, we took first year Fine Art students on a study trip to kickstart their practice. My workshop, not surprisingly was based in the Mesopotamian Rooms 55 & 56. I got them to copy cuneiform texts on to biscuit dough, sugar-plate or blue-tac ‘tablets’, as a ancient scribe would have done by imprinting into fresh clay, as well as engaging in ekphrastic writing, attempting to observe through words their chosen objects in the collection. This they did by sending tweets, touching the screens on their smartphones and tablets, imitating the early process of writing as a imprinting or pressing  into a responsive surface, rather than an inscription of line or the trace of a pen on paper, the action of writing has come full circle.

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Footnotes:

[1] Richard Myers Shelton, ‘The Babylonian Labyrinths’ Caerdroia 42, (2013), 7-29 (p. 11).

[2] Murakami Haruki, Kafka on the Shore. (London: Vintage, 2005) p. 379.

[3] See Wolfgang Heimpel, Letters to the King of Mari. Mesopotamian Civilizations Vol. 12. (Eisenbrauns: Winona Lake, Indiana, 2003), p. 213-14, cited in Matthew T. Rutz, ‘The Archaeology of Mesopotamian Extispicy: Modeling Divination in the Old Babylonian Period’, in Matthew T. Rutz and Morag M. Kersel, eds, Archaeologies of Text: Archaeology, Technology, and Ethics (Oxford and Philadelphia: Oxbow, 2014), 97-120, (p. 102).

[4] See Diane Borsato’s performance, intervention and photographs at the museum of Saint Hyacinthe, Québec, Artifacts in my Mouth, 2003 as an example of a radical engagement with historical artefacts. http://dianeborsato.net/projects/artifacts-in-my-mouth/

On Innards | Publication: Launch details and excerpt

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On Innards is a multidisciplinary project developed by artists, Amanda Couch, Andrew Hladky, and Mindy Lee, that explores the changing conceptualisations of guts and digestion, their impact on the creative process and the role they play in constructing and destabilising our sense of self.

Working in collaboration with bookwork artist and designer Richard Nash, the record of this two-year project has been dissected, reinterpreted, and reconnected in the form of a limited edition publication.

Lee, Couch and Hladky begin ruminating on their 2013 conference three-way conversation. Their reflections on reflections are interwoven with recalled events, artefacts, images, and stories from On Innards. Curated and intervened, the book becomes an embodiment of digestion, its intestinal form held contained by a mesenteric binding.


To whet your appetite, here is an small excerpt from the book. Richard asked Mindy, Andrew and I the following question, which I have answered below:

We discussed how the publication could become much more than a record. Our intentions were focused on creating a new response as well as an embodiment of On Innards. Now coming to completion, what ‘is’ the publication for you?

From our very first conversation, where we discussed what we wanted the book to become, there was a mutual desire for the accordion pleat to be a prominent feature, which was very exciting, and also for me, inevitable. Since making my first concertina books from the Reflection on Digestion series in 2012, I have been imagining the metaphorical connection of the alimentary canal, its form and function, with the concertina fold, and for me, it is an absolute embodiment of the digestive system. These ideas have been deepened more recently through my engagement with theories of the fold, particularly Laura U. Marks’ aesthetics of Enfolding-Unfolding, in which she posits a new way of articulating the complex relationships between image, information, and experience in the digital age, that go beyond representation[1].

I have been envisioning the gastrointestinal tract as a multitude of folds. Both the digestive system and the On Innards book are folds within folds within a fold. The concertina format which makes up many parts of the book, mirror the form of the small intestine, folded back and forth, crammed within the belly cavity; and then microscopically, there are the folds that extend its surface for absorption, the intestinal mucosa, plicae circulares and villi, which in our book, could be suggested by the extended fold-outs of Andrews paintings and independent and/or smaller accordions within the larger form of the piece, which increase the body of the book; and of course, there is the fold that is the whole alimentary tract from lips to anus, one long enfolding of the outside of the body inwards, which you have brilliantly articulated organ by organ, through the curation of the pages, and the pairing and combination of images, forms, and contributions: For example, starting at the beginning, with the mouth and eating, connecting Mindy’s ‘Venus’ plates, my ox tongue and script from ‘The Mouth’ performance and the physical apertures partly revealing ensuing images; via the stomach, the images of tripe and the double gate fold housing Simon’s harrowing operation on a patient’s failing gut; and the small intestine, where much of our gut flora resides, here you make the visual and conceptual link of the red commas (or lower part of the semi-colon) from Nathaniel’s text, and the red dabs of paint in Andrew’s paintings, to the microscopic phage in our intestine; right through to the end of the book, to the faecal-esque forms of Andrew’s paintings, the annotated rectum/anus page from Gray’s Anatomy, and the ‘End notes’ of Giskin’s ‘Fecal Muse’, all linked by the dialogue between Andrew, Mindy and myself, and now with you in this conversation, the explanation and unfolding of ideas, which also embrace, envelop and enfold the other pages pleated within.

Marks writes, ‘Enfolding-Unfolding ‘privileges performativity over representation, as unfolding is a performative, time-based, social act’… and …‘pays attention to the invisible, the forgotten, or what an artwork deliberately leaves enfolded’[2]. Your approach to the project embodies these ideas; particularly in the way we wanted the book to become more than simply a record of the On Innards project so far. It wasn’t any of our intentions for its form to function purely as a surface with which to transmit textual information, but rather to embody ideas that may unfold slowly, overtime or perhaps may remain enfolded. You have deliberately obscured, hidden, and manipulated excerpts of text, making them sometimes difficult to penetrate, emphasising the focus, the type of engagement, and ‘the act of interpretation’[3], which is required of the reader when encountering the book. In some parts of the book the illegibility of the texts, be it the extract of Carlos’ paper, the yoga instructions, or the re-visited three-way conversation between Mindy, Andrew and myself, first written in 2013 for the ‘Body Horror’ conference[4], with our hand-written ruminations, questions the validity of the knowledge contained within it, and through the (mis)-reading of these texts may offer new meanings and interpretations.

Marks talks specifically about certain images of history that appear to us whilst others remain hidden, and suggests that these aspects of the past are ‘not forgotten but enfolded’[5]. I was thinking about this in relation to our project, and the digestive system, after attending a talk by Ed Thornton, recently at the Wellcome Collection on Descartes and his dualist legacy[6]. Descartes’ emphasis on the brain, and his new way of conceptualising mind and selfhood heralding the Age of Enlightenment, until recently, obscured or ‘enfolded’ earlier understandings of the body. Jan Purnis, scholar of early modern literature unearths the historical importance of organs within the belly cavity on pre-modern conceptualisations of self[7]. She unfolds this history, revealing beliefs about the body, which now through new biomedical research emphasise the digestive system’s far reaching influence on our sense of self, challenging the ‘cerebro-centrism’[8] that is Descartes legacy. So then, the On Innards project, this publication, and through the act of ‘reading’ our book may help to jog the collective memory, and unfold this knowledge. Through the unfolding of the book, unwinding the different elements in the reader’s hands, physical, material, conceptual, unravelling what its contents and form might mean to them, their bodies and sense of self, our readers may enact Deleuze’s idea of ‘thought as explication or unfolding’[9]: thinking as an act of disembowelling.


[1] For a much deeper explanation of the Enfolding and unfolding model, see: Marks, Laura U. and Kelly, Reagan (2006) ‘Enfolding and unfolding: an aesthetics for the information age’ In: Vectors: Journal of Culture and Technology in a Dynamic Vernacular 1 (3). At: http://vectors.usc.edu/projects/index.php?project=72 (Accessed 25.7.15); Marks, Laura U. (2008) ‘Experience – information – image: a historiography of unfolding. Arab cinema as example’ In: Cultural Studies, 14 (1). pp. 85-98. At:

http://epress.lib.uts.edu.au/journals/index.php/csrj/article/view/2100 (Accessed 20.7.15); Marks, Laura U. (2009) ‘Information, secrets, and enigmas: an enfolding-unfolding aesthetics for cinema’ In: Screen 50 (1). pp. 86-98; Marks, Laura U. (2010) Enfoldment and Infinity: an Islamic Genealogy of New Media Art. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.

[2] Marks and Kelly, 2006.

[3] Marks and Reagan, 2006.

[4] Couch, A, Hladky, A & Lee, M. (2014) ‘On Innards’ in: Folio, J. & Luhring, H. (eds.) Body Horror and Shapeshifting: A Multidisciplinary Exploration. Oxford: Inter-Disciplinary Press: pp. 51-88.

[5] Marks, 2008; 86.

[6] Thornton, Ed (2015) Minds and Bodies. London [Talk at Wellcome Collection, 23 July 2015]

[7] See: Purnis, Jan (2010) Digestive Tracts: Early Modern Discourses of Digestion [PhD Thesis] University of Toronto; Purnis, Jan (2010) ‘The Stomach and Early Modern Emotion’ In: University of Toronto Quarterly 79 (2). pp. 800-818.

[8] Purnis, Digestive Tracts, 2010; 210.

[9] Deleuze paraphrased in Marks, 2009; 96.


On Innards | Publication will be launched The bookRoom Press at the London Artists Book Fair, hosted by the Whitechapel Gallery, London, from Thursday 10 September, (6pm-9pm) through to 6pm on Sunday 13 September. Lee, Couch and Nash will be signing books at 1pm on Saturday 12 September in Gallery 2. http://www.whitechapelgallery.org/events/london-art-book-fair/

On Innards | Event was generously supported by a Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea Arts Award. Attendance at the Body Horror 2 conference, and the On Innards | Exhibition, Event and Publication was generously supported by a research award from University for the Creative Arts.

Textblock digitally printed by Riverprint on Colorplan 135 and 270gsm stock by G. F. Smith. Manilla folder printed on an Epson R2000. Cut, folded, bound and finished by hand. Individually stamped and numbered. Produced at the bookRoom Press by Lee, Couch, Hladky and Nash.

Published by bookRoom Press, Farnham.

ISBN: 978-0-9576828-5-6.

Limited edition of 200.

200 pages of various intersecting formats and custom binding.

260 (h) x 20.5 (w)mm.

Zofia Zaliwska’s directive: Read your piece hungry. Eat when you’re finished

As part of Zofia Zaliwska’s research-creation project Ruminatus, I chose to undertake a second directive, ‘Read your piece hungry. Eat when you’re finished’, on Reflection on Digestion (2012), a calfskin leather-bound book with nine metres of concertina pages. The eighteen pages, made of 410gsm somerset satin paper, are relief printed with black ink using eighteen photo polymer plates. The book is bound with calf skin external and internal covers, and the title is hotfoiled in gold on the front. The total dimensions are 50 x 45 x 900 cm.

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The scribed text stems from a body of written work made whilst on a post-graduate course in education which has been scribed by hand in a continuous cursive line which runs from left to right and right to left from the beginning of the book to the end. Writing, pedagogic knowledge and the body are explored, and the metaphors of reflection and digestion consider process, processing, and ways of knowing and becoming. ‘Digestion’ stems from the word ‘digest’, which can both refer to an arrangement of written work; and to the processing or making sense of knowledge and experience, as well as to break down and absorb food.

I was hungry to re-read this piece, as I have not for a while. In fact, I have only read it once, cover to cover, during a performance reading a couple of summer’s ago in 8 June 2013, during the exhibition, ‘In Other Words’, which was part of Bath Fringe Arts Bath Visual Arts Festival, Bath, UK. I have also done a number of reading performances of extracts of various lengths from fifteen minutes to one and a half hours, from 2012 to 2014.

For this directive, I read the book out loud whilst video recording it from above. The performance reading took around four hours over five sittings, during the course of one day. In between reading/sittings, I prepared dough and made biscuits that were embossed with the same plate as was printed on the first page of the book. The recipe for the shortbread was found online on the website of food writer, Nigella Lawson, and was chosen because it was recommended having a good taste, with a ‘melting, buttery texture’ and holds its shape well during the baking process[1]. After baking, and finishing the final reading of the book, I then tried to read the text on the biscuits and then ate some of them.

The reflections are varied and many, and here are some so far:

The reading reminded me of the many teaching approaches/strategies that since the PGC course I have forgotten about and have not continued practicing.

The piece contains extracts and reflections on the research projects I undertook on the course. The second project, ‘Embodiment and Professional Development: (A) Reflection on Digestion’ of 2011, in which I explored my own digestive system, issues and problems, and the impact it has on my professional self, I wrote phenomenologically to get at the heart of my experience of some digestive issues. At the conclusion of the project, I said I would continue the practice of writing, but have not.

I also made a plan, since turning 40 this year, that I was going to re-visit this practice of phenomenological and narrative writing to ‘unfold’ my insides and get at the truth of my gut now for a new book piece a kind of testimonial or ‘intestimonial’. I would accumulate and edit the texts and then scribe with the same continuous line, this time on the surface of a pig or cow intestine, a length of dried sausage casing that has a very similar quality to vellum. I then hope to turn the intestine inside out, so that the writing is on the inside, and use an endoscope, the penetrative medical gaze, to ‘read’ the text, which would be enfolded and hidden. I haven’t started writing my gut diary yet, so reading this piece is a good reminder to get started. I am also wanting to revisit/update the pedagogical research project and to try and get it published in a journal, so this material could also be used for this.

It also reminds me that I want/need to look more deeply at issues of power and vulnerability and to read Foucault and bell hooks much more deeply, as during the PGC and at the time of working on the project, I was only dancing in the surface of their work.

During the reading, I was already thinking of how I would like to revisit and re-do it. Perhaps in a different version, I would stop reading from the actual text at the point when

ideas/reflections were triggered by what I was reading. I would then either go and find examples of the ideas in texts, notebooks etc., and read from them, or I would just speak out the reflections, making the connections. This would be a way of ‘reflecting in action’, as Schön[2] would say, and is similar to a strategy I used for the research project I undertook after completing the PGC, ‘At the interface: Fine Art and social science research methodologies – Watching a journey with a slippery collision’, 2011-12, in which I attempted to find my way back to my own art practice post-PGC. It is in this project that I first developed the continuous script writing/drawing. See http://www.amandacouch.co.uk/#/lt-research-award/4562650870 for images.

In all these continuous scripts, the writing is not easily legible jumping between word and image. When reading aloud my attempts to decipher the words creates an absurd narrative in which language is, in one moment recognised, the next, nonsense. This distortion is made even more so when I am reading the text imprinted in the biscuits. The two biscuits are printed from two halves of one plate, which corresponds to one page of the whole book, (in this case page one), and so are only fragments of the original piece. And each biscuit is then read separately and so fragmented even further.

Imprint of page one on biscuit dough

My continuous hand or scripto continua make reference to Latin texts from the early Christian era, when parchment was expensive. There were no spaces between words in a manuscript and Latin texts were often used as memory joggers or cue sheets where the reader would already know the text. Tim Ingold and Mary Carruthers recall that writing, right up to the Renaissance, was ‘an instrument of memory’[3] and reading was an act of recollection, a means of recovery’[4]. And in a way that is what I have done with this directive. I was hungry to re-visit and once more discover what was inside this piece of work, and reading it, cover to cover, was a way to ‘re-cover’ these experiences three years on from when the piece was made, and learn again from them.

Jan Purnis, scholar of early modern literature argues that the stomach was once considered to be ‘the seat of appetite’ and that it perceived hunger[5]. ‘Appetite’ she writes, ‘comes from the Latin appete, ‘to seek after’, and in early modern English, as in modern-day English, it could refer to both the desire for other more immaterial things, as could stomach’ [6]. For me, the stomach, alongside digestion could be profoundly connected to the way we think about learning and research. The hollow eager receptacle of the stomach, where food is ‘cooked’ and transformed, could be a metaphor for research itself and the pursuit to quench the insatiable hunger for learning, knowing, and understanding of the curious artist. According to Carruthers, the stomach was also a metaphor for memory[7]. She wrote in The Book of Memory, that scripture was ingested and digested by Medieval monks through the act of reading, re-reading, murmuring and mouthing words, and reading aloud during meals, it was then regurgitated through the act of recall and recitation.

At times the illegibility of the script questions the validity of the knowledge contained within it, and through the (mis)-reading of the text the communication of that knowledge is compromised further. And yet maybe through the struggle to read and the attempts to make sense of the words it brings about new meanings. Some of this knowledge in is almost certainly lost forever, but some of it is in my memory. The various performances over the last few years has enabled, through the repeated act of reading and re-reading, with the help of the legible text, me to recall some of it quite easily.

The awkwardness of the book, its physicality requires me/the reader to move around it to follow each line as they alternate in direction. This action reconnects with the medieval notion of reading as ‘a bodily performance’[8], rather than simply the decoding of words on a page.

My eye follows my finger whose tip surveys the surface of the page, tracing the lettering along the lines and keeping my place along the landscape of the page. This ‘index’ finger follows the same trajectories of my hand that previously made the text.

Through the reading, where I engage with an extract from another of my research projects, ‘Embodiment and Embodied Knowledge in Higher Education in Creative Subjects: A Case Study’, I am reminded of the interview with one of my participants who interprets the subject of embodiment and embodied knowledge, in an academic context, as a marriage of theory and practice, and illustrates it as a process, with a strong bodily image:

‘Abstract knowledge [goes] into the mind, and then you have to put it to practice, to eat and digest it, until something comes out, a crude analogy to the complete digestive process can be used here, replacing the excremental residue by your own version of knowledge’.

Later on in the course when I undertook the second research project, ‘Embodiment and Professional Development: (A) Reflection on Digestion’, which used my digestive problems as a metaphor for critical reflection to explore my role as teacher, I unconsciously drew from this metaphor and developed a project, that is still ongoing, failing to acknowledge this quote/reference – I simply forgot that it existed.

Whilst reading the extract and remembering that I have forgotten its existence and that it clearly hit a nerve, becoming the overarching idea of a whole of work since the PGC course made me feel a bit sick, and has made realise that I need to find a way to acknowledge it.

I am seduced by the beautiful set of circular white bowls containing powders of varying shades of white; flour and baking powder, the crystals of salt and sugar, as well as the yellow yokes of the eggs, and the creamy pale butter.

bowls

First the squashing of the butter: The spoon pushes the butter between the surface of the bowl to begin with it doesn’t feel like I am creaming, rather I am forcing the sharp sugar crystals to cut into the fat molecules, bringing air with it to aerate my mixture. The heat generated by the movement of the spoon as the grains cut and erode the butter slowly melts the two substances together to create the creamy paste. The scraping and crunching of the sugar granules are sound as if they are also scratching the surface of the bowl.

Reflection on this action, I am reminded of an earlier body of work in which I am exploring sugar and my MA dissertation of ten years ago, ‘Seduction and Dissolution: The transformation of sugar in the works of Asaki Kan, Amanda Couch and Anya Gallaccio’[9]. Here I spoke about working with a passtilage called gum-paste or sugar plate, a substance made from powdered sugar, egg white and gum tragacanth, similar to porcelain, to mould into a tea service which I ingested in a number of performances. (See http://www.amandacouch.co.uk/#/sugar-works/4587653245 for documentation of works from 2004-2007).

In the creation of the dough I was thinking about what Gaston Bachelard called ‘the material imagination’[10], a way of accessing the world of matter through the senses:

‘When we have succeeded in making water truly penetrate into the very substance of earth reduced to powder, when flour has drunk up the water, and when water has eaten up the flour, then the experience, the long dream of ‘binding’ begins’[11].

In the first stage of mixing, this squashing, my arms are ok, but as I am having to actually cream they quickly become tired. The butter’s fatty power resists the pathetic force of my body. An ache pervades the whole arm, from fingers to elbows up to my dodgy right shoulder, and I realise how weak I am and how women who cooked, baked, stirred, creamed, and mixed in the past, would be so strong. Looking back over my footage I don’t think that I creamed it fully.

As the oven is not big enough to take a biscuit printed with the whole of one plate I had to print them in two parts. I did not cut or neaten their shapes and left the edges as raw pieces of rolled split pastry.

The biscuits before and more so after baking, look like fragments of ancient texts, the Rosetta stone, in particular, Babylonian clay tablets, that I have recently been looking at, similarly paste (in the form of clay), imprinted with texts (the end of reed, to impress the cuneiform script), and then baked in the sun or in kilns. Ancient tablets that were cooked only in the sun were less durable and could be soaked in water to be re-processed into fresh surfaces for new texts. And in the case of my biscuits, they will also be re-processed through ingestion, digestion and excretion into a new text.

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Sometimes during reading I am annoyed by the ‘quality’ of my cursive hand. Even though the work’s origination was partly an exercise in durational performance, reflecting the experience of the body, especially the hand, and the process of writing over a long period of time, I still seem to be drawn towards creating something visually beautiful, a perfect script, whatever that might look like, rather than feeling entirely happy with an authentic document of a process how ever it might be.

[1] Lawson, N. (2015) Nigella Lawson: Butter Cut-Out Cookies. At: http://www.nigella.com/recipes/view/butter-cut-out-cookies (Accessed on 19.05.15)

[2]Schön, D. (1991) The Reflective Practioner: How Professionals Think in Action Avebury: Ashgate

[3] Ingold, T. (2007) Lines: A Brief History Abingdon: Routledge, 15) & Carruthers, M. (2008) The Book of Memory: A Study of Memory in Medieval Culture, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 206.

[4] Ingold, 15.

[5] Purnis, Jan (2010) ‘The Stomach and Early Modern Emotion’ In: University of Toronto Quarterly 79 (2) pp. 800-818; 804.

[6] Purnis, 804.

[7] Carruthers (1990) p206

[8] Frese D. W. and O’Brien O’Keeffe, K. (1997) (eds) The Book And The Body

Notre Dame and London: University of Notre Dame Press, xiii.

[9] Couch, Amanda (2004) Seduction and Dissolution: The transformation of sugar in the works of Asaki Kan, Amanda Couch and Anya Gallaccio [M.A. Dissertation] Royal College of Art.

[10] Bachelard, G. (1983) Water and Dreams: An Essay on the Imagination of Matter Dallas: The Pegasus Foundation, 1.

[11] Bachelard, 1983; 105